Anyways, off with my question. I've noticed that a few modeling kits, especially in the 0083 line, are designated as "coating versions". Besides being expensive (especially on Ebay), how exactly are these kits different than the regular kits?
Gundam "Coating Versions"
Gundam "Coating Versions"
Hey guys, what's up? I'm a new dude in these forums. I've been building modeling kits for a few years, and I hope to contribute a lot to the discussions.
Anyways, off with my question. I've noticed that a few modeling kits, especially in the 0083 line, are designated as "coating versions". Besides being expensive (especially on Ebay), how exactly are these kits different than the regular kits?
Anyways, off with my question. I've noticed that a few modeling kits, especially in the 0083 line, are designated as "coating versions". Besides being expensive (especially on Ebay), how exactly are these kits different than the regular kits?
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valkyriepilot
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Yup, basically those kits are coated with metallic colors in corresponding top their original colors. Always good to own 1 kit with a "bling" feel to it.
Knowledge is limited, but imagination is unlimited
"When you kill a man, it is a tragedy. When you kill 10 million, it is a statistic" - Joseph Stalin, C&C Red Alert
"When you kill a man, it is a tragedy. When you kill 10 million, it is a statistic" - Joseph Stalin, C&C Red Alert
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FEMC_Mirage_Corp
- Posts: 45
- Joined: Mon Jul 03, 2006 12:30 pm
It's worth noting that one limitation of the "coating versions" is that you will get marked spots where the parts attach to the sprues and thus there's no metallic coating on them.
The design of the shiny gold Hyaku-Shiki MG (Type 100 or Char's MS from Zeta) was done with an eye towards minimizing this problem. But even on that kit it wasn't entirely avoided. Of course on kits where this wasn't even a design feature originally the problem will be worse.
In general I would avoid the "coating versions". Basically most of them look tacky in the pictures I've seen. The Hyaku-Shiki is the only one I'd seriously consider. Since shiny gold is how the MS is SUPPOSED to look and they took care to minimize the sprues problem.
If you want something with some bling. I would suggest looking for some of the transparent kits. Most of them are produced for special events (like the various annual model kit shows you'll see referenced on Gunnota). So they are of limited availability and prices can be... steep. But the same is true of most of the "special coating" versions. Especially with the internal skeletons on most MG kits, you get a very cool "visible" body effect.
There are however transparent versions of the RX-78 and Zaku II (green and Char's Red) that have been in regular production for several years. They should be almost as readily available as any other kit. They are the first master grade kits, though so they won't have as much in the way of bells and whistles or posability, but they do look pretty good.
I have a transparent MG Rick Dom that is very cool looking and a translucent MG Super Gundam which is pretty decent. There was also a version of the Alex, but I doubt you'll fine any of them.
The design of the shiny gold Hyaku-Shiki MG (Type 100 or Char's MS from Zeta) was done with an eye towards minimizing this problem. But even on that kit it wasn't entirely avoided. Of course on kits where this wasn't even a design feature originally the problem will be worse.
In general I would avoid the "coating versions". Basically most of them look tacky in the pictures I've seen. The Hyaku-Shiki is the only one I'd seriously consider. Since shiny gold is how the MS is SUPPOSED to look and they took care to minimize the sprues problem.
If you want something with some bling. I would suggest looking for some of the transparent kits. Most of them are produced for special events (like the various annual model kit shows you'll see referenced on Gunnota). So they are of limited availability and prices can be... steep. But the same is true of most of the "special coating" versions. Especially with the internal skeletons on most MG kits, you get a very cool "visible" body effect.
There are however transparent versions of the RX-78 and Zaku II (green and Char's Red) that have been in regular production for several years. They should be almost as readily available as any other kit. They are the first master grade kits, though so they won't have as much in the way of bells and whistles or posability, but they do look pretty good.
I have a transparent MG Rick Dom that is very cool looking and a translucent MG Super Gundam which is pretty decent. There was also a version of the Alex, but I doubt you'll fine any of them.
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I already bought a coating version, of the GP03 Full Vernian, to be exact. 
So I'm not really sure how to feel, after reading the above post lol.
Anyways, what type of paint should I use, to cover up the spots left by cutting the pieces out. Will acrylic work, or will I require enamel? Sanding this thing (if I choose to sand) is going to be hell.
So I'm not really sure how to feel, after reading the above post lol.Anyways, what type of paint should I use, to cover up the spots left by cutting the pieces out. Will acrylic work, or will I require enamel? Sanding this thing (if I choose to sand) is going to be hell.
Oh yes, GP01, sorry about that lol.
No, I didn't mean sanding the entire model -- that would indeed "defeat the purpose" of having this kit. But, sanding (carefully) the small jagged spots (from taking the pieces out from the frame), is a must, if I want the model to look smooth. I'm not sure if I want to risk it though, since I don't want to accidentally destroy some of the coating. I want to minimize as much damage as possible.
Anyways, back to my question about the appropriate type of touch-up paint for this model. Any suggestions are welcome.
No, I didn't mean sanding the entire model -- that would indeed "defeat the purpose" of having this kit. But, sanding (carefully) the small jagged spots (from taking the pieces out from the frame), is a must, if I want the model to look smooth. I'm not sure if I want to risk it though, since I don't want to accidentally destroy some of the coating. I want to minimize as much damage as possible.
Anyways, back to my question about the appropriate type of touch-up paint for this model. Any suggestions are welcome.