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 Post Posted: Sun Aug 29, 2010 1:36 am 
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Elitist Earth Politician
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Location: In the fridge, behind the mayonnaise, next to the ketchup, and to the left of the coleslaw.
Whenever I prime, paint, and clean up my Gunpla, one thought always nags at me: my paint, primer, putty and all my other non-solid modeling tools--apart from being flammable--contain chemicals capable of causing 'cancer, birth defects and other reproductive harm.' I wear a mask when I use primer and I don't hold anything up to my nose, but are there other safety measures I can take while modeling?

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 Post Posted: Wed Sep 01, 2010 7:05 am 
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Lackey GM Pilot

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Ventilation, gloves, etc.

How can I attach a waverider to an action base?


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 Post Posted: Tue Sep 07, 2010 2:24 am 
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Mecha Flunky

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Murra wrote:
Ventilation, gloves, etc.

How can I attach a waverider to an action base?


What kit? If its the Zeta 2.0 I believe you can use the clamp for the WZC. If its the v1, HGUC, or the Z+ then you can't, except by making a custom clamp attached to the screw-type adapter of the Action Base 1 (or 2 for the HGUC).


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 Post Posted: Tue Sep 07, 2010 12:42 pm 
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AEUG Slapping Boy

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G-Slayer wrote:
Whenever I prime, paint, and clean up my Gunpla, one thought always nags at me: my paint, primer, putty and all my other non-solid modeling tools--apart from being flammable--contain chemicals capable of causing 'cancer, birth defects and other reproductive harm.' I wear a mask when I use primer and I don't hold anything up to my nose, but are there other safety measures I can take while modeling?


Specifically, be sure that mask is a respirator capable of filtering organic solvents. At the local hardware store, this style of mask costs around $40-$50. If you don't have that kind of filtration, the mask isn't doing anything for you.

Another thing that helps is to wet-sand: this will limit the amount of dust that goes airborne when you sand things down. Whether it's styrene dust or putty dust or resin dust or whatever, it's dangerous. By using wet-dry sandpaper, and wetting it before you sand, the dust will largely be captured in the water.


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 Post Posted: Fri Jan 07, 2011 4:11 am 
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Elitist Earth Politician
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I'm working on a MG Zaku II F2 and was wondering if I could get some advice from some people with more expertise than I.
i.e. Someone who actually paints their kits more often than not.

I'm looking to add a spot to stow a beam saber and was wondering if anybody had some tips on making that kind of alteration? I was thinking of adding a spot on the backpack because it has slide out panels for when you want to attach the boosters. My other idea was to try and add a peg to the side of the saber and just placing it where the heat hawk goes.

My other issue is that I'm going without the cables on the legs and was wondering what would work best to cover up the holes they leave behind? Jabman had mentioned a product called "green stuff" in an early post and I was considering that.

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 Post Posted: Fri Jan 07, 2011 8:02 pm 
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Defender of DESTINY
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Outlaw wrote:
I'm working on a MG Zaku II F2 and was wondering if I could get some advice from some people with more expertise than I.
i.e. Someone who actually paints their kits more often than not.

I'm looking to add a spot to stow a beam saber and was wondering if anybody had some tips on making that kind of alteration? I was thinking of adding a spot on the backpack because it has slide out panels for when you want to attach the boosters. My other idea was to try and add a peg to the side of the saber and just placing it where the heat hawk goes.

My other issue is that I'm going without the cables on the legs and was wondering what would work best to cover up the holes they leave behind? Jabman had mentioned a product called "green stuff" in an early post and I was considering that.


2 ideas for your beamsaber, first drill a hole in the backpack but make it small enough so the hilt won't slide through. Second option is to create a hook for the lower skirt armor like a Hi-Zack.

As for the cable mod, as you mentioned green stuff would work otherwise I would custom cut a peice of plastic to fit on the inside of the armor and then glue it into place.

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 Post Posted: Sat Jan 08, 2011 5:25 pm 
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Elitist Earth Politician
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Thanks for the tips. I don't think I'm confident enough, yet, to go drilling away on my kit but, I hadn't even thought of anything like the hook option. Both sound viable, so I'll weigh my options pick up some GS and proceed. Thanks again. :mrgreen:

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 Post Posted: Sat Jan 08, 2011 11:05 pm 
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Defender of DESTINY
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Outlaw wrote:
Thanks for the tips. I don't think I'm confident enough, yet, to go drilling away on my kit but, I hadn't even thought of anything like the hook option. Both sound viable, so I'll weigh my options pick up some GS and proceed. Thanks again. :mrgreen:


good luck and let us all know how things turn out

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 Post Posted: Sun Jan 16, 2011 5:42 pm 
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Elitist Earth Politician
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Location: In the fridge, behind the mayonnaise, next to the ketchup, and to the left of the coleslaw.
I'd like a some pointers on mixing enamel paints and maintaining their moisture. Up till now I'd add drops of thinner, till I just discovered that it actually hardens the paint.

Edit: I also have some questions for a kitbash project I'm planning, which involves attaching a head crest and skirt armor to a Gunpla body that doesn't accommodate either. How could I go about this?

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Last edited by G-Slayer on Tue Feb 01, 2011 11:07 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post Posted: Wed Jan 26, 2011 1:44 am 
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Newtype Emo Guy
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Location: West Virginia
So a couple weeks ago, I got a metallic coated Zeta Gundam MG, and of course one of the main problems with these types of kits is the obvious paint scratches from where you cut the parts from the runner. I am looking for a good paint to cover up these scratches, but the only paint I can seem to find in my local hobby shops is Testors enamel.

I already had the Testors "Steel" enamel, which I used beforehand on another kit, so I tried to use that on some of the metallic silver. I think it's better than it was before, but it's still very noticable. I also need some chrome red, blue, gold, and black paints to cover up the rest. Can anyone suggest a good, yet cheap paint for me to use?

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 Post Posted: Tue Feb 08, 2011 8:34 am 
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Mecha Flunky

Joined: Sat Feb 09, 2008 3:16 am
Posts: 14
ulnhyrr wrote:
Edited: Updated the presentation, grab it and check it out.
Gunpla Building and Resin Figure tutorial - *.torrent file (LEGIT, and very informative. ~LG)
Three powerpoint presentation with videos on basic to advanced techniques to build gunpla and resin figures from start to finish.

Wash technique for panel lines
*note, link goes to another forum, but I wrote and provided the pictures for the tutorial.

Various progress pages on my website that chronicles builds from start to finish

Tools and techniques from my webpage.
Some may be a bit outdated, but some may feel that they are useful.



can anyone upload the torrent to megaupload or other similar file hosting site?


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 Post Posted: Tue Feb 08, 2011 11:57 pm 
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Defender of DESTINY
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Strike105 wrote:
So a couple weeks ago, I got a metallic coated Zeta Gundam MG, and of course one of the main problems with these types of kits is the obvious paint scratches from where you cut the parts from the runner. I am looking for a good paint to cover up these scratches, but the only paint I can seem to find in my local hobby shops is Testors enamel.

I already had the Testors "Steel" enamel, which I used beforehand on another kit, so I tried to use that on some of the metallic silver. I think it's better than it was before, but it's still very noticable. I also need some chrome red, blue, gold, and black paints to cover up the rest. Can anyone suggest a good, yet cheap paint for me to use?


try to find some Tamyia clear red, clear blue, clear yellow. If you use a base coat silver with a top coat clear you get a really good mettalic effect. I used the same technique on my G4 Gundam. Watch this video to see what I mean

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nhIfTAX54HA

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 Post Posted: Mon Feb 21, 2011 9:46 am 
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Mecha Flunky

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can anyone reupload the torrent file(the Tutorial version 3.0)? mininova just deleted the torrent file. Thanks


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 Post Posted: Thu Apr 14, 2011 6:53 pm 
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Pilot's Doomed Girlfriend
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When I used to build plastic kits in the past I was always using those awkward Testors style cement squeeze tubes

http://www.darcyshobbyshop.com/wp-conte ... cement.jpg

But now I've recently gotten back into Gunpla and want to start using the bottled cement, and I know many of the bottles include a applicator brush in the cap, however I see in the modelling mags use of fine tipped application brushes. Are there special glue applying brushes to use so they wont be useless after a single use or do I have to use fine tipped paint brushes.

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_55jG5ppu8Ns/T ... cement.jpg


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 Post Posted: Thu Apr 14, 2011 8:30 pm 
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Elitist Earth Politician
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Location: In the fridge, behind the mayonnaise, next to the ketchup, and to the left of the coleslaw.
I've been using liquid cement a lot lately, so I share your concern over how it may effect your other tools. I haven't used other brushes myself, but the directions say to "wash up with water." So as long as you do that I can't imagine the cement ruining a fine-tipped brush, though I'd personally suggest adding as little cement to the applicator brush as possible when filling tiny areas. Or you can dip a toothpick in; that's another way.

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 Post Posted: Sun Apr 17, 2011 9:50 pm 
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G-Slayer wrote:
I've been using liquid cement a lot lately, so I share your concern over how it may effect your other tools. I haven't used other brushes myself, but the directions say to "wash up with water." So as long as you do that I can't imagine the cement ruining a fine-tipped brush, though I'd personally suggest adding as little cement to the applicator brush as possible when filling tiny areas. Or you can dip a toothpick in; that's another way.



Thanks for that. I have a different quesiton about painting. I've read that some don't like to do whole primer/repaint jobs on precolored kits and if the default color is pretty good, they apply clear top coats only to give the kit a more matte-like feel. What does one use to apply this spray top coat?


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 Post Posted: Mon Apr 18, 2011 6:33 pm 
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Location: In the fridge, behind the mayonnaise, next to the ketchup, and to the left of the coleslaw.
Personally, I use Tamiya clear spray cans, available in gloss, semi-gloss and flat for that matte finish. Some people say Krylon sprays are pretty good (and the cans are bigger). Just be sure not to spray too close if the model's painted or it'll ruin the paintjob.

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 Post Posted: Wed Apr 20, 2011 2:08 pm 
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Newtype Emo Guy

Joined: Fri Apr 21, 2006 7:08 am
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Just want to introduce another link for tutorials:

http://thosegundamguys.org/

It's a group of modelers in Southern California that gather to build, mostly gunpla. The site is an information site with tutorials and information about upcoming contest and model build gatherings

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 Post Posted: Fri Apr 22, 2011 12:10 am 
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Pilot's Doomed Girlfriend
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G-Slayer wrote:
Personally, I use Tamiya clear spray cans, available in gloss, semi-gloss and flat for that matte finish. Some people say Krylon sprays are pretty good (and the cans are bigger). Just be sure not to spray too close if the model's painted or it'll ruin the paintjob.


So i picked up a couple different flat clear coat sprays, one from a local store and one online:

The first is this Mr. Super Clear Spray 170ml. Gundam Hobby (Flat) http://www.amazon.com/Super-Clear-Spray ... GBT7CFV8H4

and then from the local store I picked up this TOPCOAT Gundam Mr. Hobby Top Coat Flat NET 88ml. Spray http://www.amazon.com/TOPCOAT-Gundam-Ho ... GBT7CFV8H4

Now the TOPCOAT i was told by the store owner was safe for plastic kits and acrylic water soluble paints, however I am not sure if Mr Super Clear Spray is ok as well. Can anyone clarify this?


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 Post Posted: Fri Apr 22, 2011 2:25 am 
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Newtype Emo Guy

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Both are safe on plastic. Top Coat is acrylic based, water soluble, Mr Super Clear is lacquer based.

Both dry fast, however, the top coat, since it's acrylic, will take longer to fully cure (chemically settle and bond to the plastic). Super Clear will be cured once it's dried for a few hours.

The difference in these two products is that one is safe to use over acrylic paint jobs - Mr Top Coat, since it's acrylic.

If you painted the kit with acrylics and then sprayed Mr Super Clear, if you don't take very special care, Mr Super Clear will eat away at the acrylic paint layer.

If you are more interested in reading up on some of the different paint types modelers use, read this article: http://thosegundamguys.org/2011/04/07/paint-types/

There are plenty of other articles that discuss different paint types online as well.

edit: also, since you're in Los Angeles, if you're interested, ThoseGundamGuys do a monthly model build gathering out in Orange County; and there are about 20-30 folks that build at all levels, and you can really learn a lot if you're interested in becoming a better modeler.

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