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 Post Posted: Sun Jul 19, 2009 11:47 pm 
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Elitist Earth Politician
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MarkW wrote:
Fortunately, Testors sells gloss and flat coat. Krylon also has a line of flat, semi, and gloss clear coats that are perfectly fine (not sure what "model grade" :?: means, other than tiny cans of the same stuff at 3X the cost!). If you do go with Krylon or other large sparaycans, you just gotta be careful in applying the coats--they can dump a lot of paint real fast.

what i mean by 'model grade' is that it works better on model kits than any other brand. Iv used vaious top coats that were probably meant for stuff other than model kits and none of them worked as well as top coats meant for models. I dunno, after using Testors flat coat, im never using another generic hardware store brand can again.

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 Post Posted: Sat Aug 01, 2009 3:13 am 
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http://www.hobbyfanatics.com/index.php?showtopic=16228

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 Post Posted: Fri Aug 21, 2009 9:15 pm 
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Newtype Emo Guy

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For some of you guys who are interested in painting the sinanju, here's a technique that make help you out. This is for painting raised details without having to resort to the tedious task of masking or relying on hand painting. Hopefully you guys find some use in this:

http://gamerabaenre.com/reverse_wash.htm

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 Post Posted: Fri Aug 21, 2009 10:07 pm 
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I like your way technique...but iv already finished painting my Sinanju gold trim parts. I masked them, wasnt even a difficult job because i went another route.

I just took the parts right out of the box, cleaned them and without priming i masked the trimed areas and since theyre raised a bit i could see the outline of the trim even under the tape. I used low tack painters tape so as not to leave any sticky residue. Next step was to take a toothpick and outline the trime with the tip to that the black areas and the trim would be sufficiently separated. Next i took a BRAND NEW blade (go to the dollar store) and cut along the edges of the trim and remove the tape. Now its easy, simply paint, let dry and remove the tape and you should have perfectly painted gold trims.

Now what i did was to touch up and whatnot before the gold cured...this was kind of made easy as i didnt prime; simply took a toothpick and scratched away at any offending areas. Any areas with too much gold residue (because scratching it didnt remove it completely) i just painted over in flat black which was the scheme i wanted. Also, the black lines in the emblems were easy to finish as all i did was scratch at them with the back of my knife.

WHat i got in the end were very finely done gold trims for what i was dreading was going to be a very difficult job. Even the shield emblem and trims which i was told were extremely difficult were an absolute breeze because of this method. What you do need are steady hands and a bit of patience and of course a brand new blade. Steady hands moreso as a single slip will have you scratching the trim with the knife.

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 Post Posted: Sat Aug 22, 2009 8:54 am 
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Cardboard Leo Ace
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I'd be interested in seeing some pictures of your results.

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 Post Posted: Thu Sep 03, 2009 12:07 pm 
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Lol @ krylon being generic. It's actually one of the better hardware/home brands and it works awesome on models. Just ask MarkW on hobbyfanatic, IIRC he used it quite a bit.
I use it too and though the top coats are a bit strong and can eat weaker paints if you spray it on too strong at once, it's great. The paint also goes on nice and smooth provided you don't have any damn wind messing it up. I recommend it, just spray it in varying levels.


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 Post Posted: Mon Sep 14, 2009 5:04 pm 
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Mecha Flunky

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ulnhyrr wrote:


I'd love to see these tutorials but my dl is stuck at 25.7%, and I'm unable to connect to either of the two seeders now. :(


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 Post Posted: Sun Jan 10, 2010 12:09 pm 
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Lackey GM Pilot
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Is there a better pen for panel lining than gundam markers? I have the fine point one, but even that isn't small enough to get into some panel lines.


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 Post Posted: Wed Jan 20, 2010 10:37 am 
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couple of issues i need help withsregarding the MG F91 gundam harrison version, the ball joint for the right hand on mine won't rotate without the plastic stressing, anyway to fix this aside from attempting to pull it out with pliers? plus the yellow triangle for the beam sabre rack keeps falling out.

are these issues common with F91 kits?

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 Post Posted: Wed Jan 20, 2010 12:40 pm 
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blind_dead_mcjones wrote:
couple of issues i need help withsregarding the MG F91 gundam harrison version, the ball joint for the right hand on mine won't rotate without the plastic stressing, anyway to fix this aside from attempting to pull it out with pliers? plus the yellow triangle for the beam sabre rack keeps falling out.

are these issues common with F91 kits?


I have the F91 Harrison Martin colours kit and I haven't experienced those problems. The only problem I have with it is the looseness of certain pieces of armour(thighs, forearms), which seem to be a common issue with the kit.


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 Post Posted: Thu Feb 11, 2010 2:27 pm 
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Any tips for painting an old, unpainted model that has been sitting on display for 3 years, maybe more? The models I have lined up for this treatment aren't exactly filthy, but won't layers of dust and whatever create problems applying paint? Also, these are Master Grades, so considering I haven't done anything to make disassembly easier, anything I should bare in mind?


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 Post Posted: Thu Feb 11, 2010 3:47 pm 
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Lackey GM Pilot

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If you're worried about dust, just dust the model before you paint. You can buy an air can from Target, Wal-Mart or any place that sells electronics to make it a little easier.


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 Post Posted: Fri Feb 12, 2010 4:39 am 
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Fignuts wrote:
Is there a better pen for panel lining than gundam markers? I have the fine point one, but even that isn't small enough to get into some panel lines.


I've tried every art supply fine tip to be found, and my experience is the gundam panel line pen is THE finest point marker you're going to find anywhere.


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 Post Posted: Mon Feb 15, 2010 12:22 am 
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Hey everyone, just made my first custom mod to a MG kit. I added a LED light to MG Zeong, giving it a light up mono eye.

I'm actually surprised just how easy it was to do, 3 bucks at radio shack, a sodering iron, and a 9 volt batterie and my Zeong has an erie red glow to the eye.

here is a short vid of my work

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jfGg06HNcP0

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 Post Posted: Sun Mar 21, 2010 8:27 pm 
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I wanted to make a custom part and redo other parts of a 1/144 gundam model I just got is there any kinds of drying clay or malable items in the states that I can get to do this? Something I can like shape on the arm and will dry hard and stay there?


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 Post Posted: Sat Mar 27, 2010 3:50 pm 
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Racer09 wrote:
I wanted to make a custom part and redo other parts of a 1/144 gundam model I just got is there any kinds of drying clay or malable items in the states that I can get to do this? Something I can like shape on the arm and will dry hard and stay there?


the only thing I can think of that might fit your description is a product from games workshop called "green stuff" (yes that is the actual name) it is a 2 compund modeling clay that uses a blue and yellow clay, once mixed they turn green and when that happens you have got about 4 to 6 hours before it turns solid. After a day or 2 it is solid as a rock and you can paint it as you see fit. Remember though onces the compond turns green the clock is ticking.

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 Post Posted: Wed Mar 31, 2010 3:54 am 
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Prime92's tutorial on how to give a standard model something that resembles a titanium finish

http://www.youtube.com/user/Prime92#p/a/u/0/r3EbBVuHZNE

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 Post Posted: Wed May 12, 2010 7:01 pm 
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Racer09 wrote:
I wanted to make a custom part and redo other parts of a 1/144 gundam model I just got is there any kinds of drying clay or malable items in the states that I can get to do this? Something I can like shape on the arm and will dry hard and stay there?

hasegawa, tamiya and gunze all have various types of masking solutions.


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 Post Posted: Wed May 12, 2010 8:09 pm 
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never had any issues with my MG F91, though the polycapless desgin can sometimes lead to issues

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 Post Posted: Wed Aug 04, 2010 2:44 pm 
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I realized that I wrote a tutorial on LED installation about 7 years ago... time for an update, so I wrote a new tutorial for installing an LED into gunpla: http://gamerabaenre.com/?p=1061

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